The museum was closed.
Mont Carmel faced the ocean on the south side of the island and the wind was much too strong for me to stand out there for very long. But it's a dramatic spot, a huge church, the graveyard next to it, spiked with more white stones than not, all written in French. The shift in colors--or the lack of colors--was gorgeous.
I didn't stay there long, though. Too much weather. But not before I stared for a very long time at the uneven ground across the graves, the low spots in front of the headstones--and this I knew from my time on Grosse Ile two summers ago, the mass grave of the Irish: the depressions are where the coffins have collapsed. Maybe there is such a thing as too much cemetery knowledge...
And then there was this, what seemed like a cutout in the cemetery, but I approached it from the seaside, so I didn't know what the sign said. It's the children's burial ground. The children have names--that's what's on the sign--but the graves are unidentified. I don't know what to make of it: it's a Catholic Church and cemetery, so I would expect unbaptized babies to be buried outside consecrated ground (though, perhaps this spot was once outside the cemetery proper and thus unconsecrated), but most of these children have names and so I wonder why they were not buried with their families.
I came back to the Scamp and tried a dinner experiment: one bottle coconut curry (had to go to the health food section to find vegetarian curry), one potato, half an onion, half a can of chickpeas, half a can of peas and carrots, into the crock pot. That was about 3:30. I tried to map out my Nova Scotia plans while I made sure that the crock pot was not going to burn down the Scamp and I think that I'm going to skip Cape Breton National Highlands and give myself a reason to go back someday. I think I'm going to head to Halifax, and then make my way around Yarmouth, Digby, Annapolis Royal, Grand Pre, and the rest of the place names in my genealogical files.
But with that task at least sketched out, the sun almost came out and so I got back into the Jeep, went down to Cabot Beach much the same as I did yesterday, just to see what the sea looked like at this point in time. I'm glad I did. It was cold, but one can always warm up.
I am no longer even remotely disappointed with Prince Edward Island. In fact, with the bright sunshine and no wind, blue skies dramatic against the depth of that red earth and green fields, there's a richness here that I haven't even scratched. Perhaps that's enough incentive to return.
Next Stop: Halifax, I think.